Friday, November 13, 2015

Back In My Day

I actually don’t think much has changed since I started surfing 30 years ago. 

Despite what the curmudgeons say, it’s not all that much more crowded than it was in 1985. The waves are mostly the same. The attitude in the water, if anything, might actually be better. The wetsuits are better. The boards are better. The performance is obviously better. And THAT’S the part that trips me out. The performance is so much better that very few of us can even attempt to relate to the current crop of pro surfers. 

My Dad told me about watching Wilt Chamberlain in the 60’s taking professional basketball to such a new level, that he could no longer relate. It had became a sport of hyper athletic giants. 




I think a similar quantum leap has happened in surfing. In 1986 anyone could watch Curren and Occy and think, “Someday, I might be able to do a turn like that.” They were the BEST, but it was still roughly the same thing you were doing. Just way, way better. 




Today’s pro surfers are doing a whole new sport. The airs, the flips, the tow-ins, the suicide barrels on freakish novelty waves…it’s hyper-specialized stuff most of us can't even comprehend, much less ever hope to do. 




Or even want to do. 

Ok, maybe that last part is a lie. But I'm gonna do roundhouse cutbacks until I believe it. 

The Colonel says, "At ease."