Monday, March 02, 2009

Easy Now

Scary times. Really fucking scary times. But probably the best time to be reminded of why we surf in the first place.

"My whole life is this escape. My whole life is this wave. I drop in, set the whole thing up, pull off a bottom turn, pull up into it...and shoot for my life...going for broke, man. And behind me, all the shit goes over my back. The screaming parents, teachers, police, priests, politicians, kneeboarders, windsurfers...they’re all going over the falls head first into the reef. Head first into the fucking reef. And I’m shooting for my life. And when it starts to close out I pull out through the bottom, out to the back, and I pick off another one and do the same goddamn thing."
-- Miki Dora, 1989

The Colonel says, "At ease. Really".