Tuesday, September 06, 2005

Love's Labor's Found

Great Labor Day weekend for waves in HB.

Saturday through today (Tuesday afternoon), we've had clean, racy, waist to head-high waves. Which is especially impressive when you consider the 5-foot-plus high tides every day.

The water temp has dropped a bit down to the lower 60's, but the weather has been so hot and the water such a beautiful blue, I just can't bring myself to stuff into the comp.

The only real negative I can think of is that it's still pretty crowded. I figured it would be empty out there today, being the day after Labor Day and all, but it was pretty much shoulder to shoulder out there this morning.

That's okay though. Some of the schools still haven't started, especially the universities, and great weather, even in September, still brings out a lot of the flex-schedulers and late vacationers. And after this horrendous summer, I'm more than happy to share some good waves and great conditions.

I'm also excited because I get to roll down to SD this afternoon and pick up the first of my two new boards - a bright blue rocket fish, all shiny glossy with glassed on fins. With any luck I'll get to test drive it afterwards in Carlsbad with my buddy, Kebo.

Kebo is a classic SD guy. Grew up near La Jolla and has been surfing with his same childhood bros for 25 years. He married my wife's best friend from college, and now has her surfing too.

Funny story about the two of them: He's Asian and very dark. She's blonde and very white, but grew up in Kauai. They go to Hawaii to visit her family and paddle out one afternoon. Da boyz paddle up to Kebo and start talking pidgin'. He doesn't understand a word and looks at his wife, who starts going off in Pidgin'.

"Oh what, you tink cuz he's Asian he's local, brah? You doan' even know how haole he is. Talk to da girlfriend instead!"

I'd have paid a hundred bucks to see the looks on their faces. Full alternate universe in Kauai that day.

BTW, in my next post I think it's time we got into the whole leash thing. It's such a trend right now to go leashless, but unlike most surf trends, this one really has fairly serious implications about the way we surf and even the way we approach riding waves in the first place.

The Colonel says, "Stay tuned."